Microneedling is a cosmetic treatment involving poking teeny-tiny holes in the surface of the skin to create "micro-injuries." The idea is to invoke the skin's natural healing ability without scarring, which can have a regenerative effect that boosts collagen, improves texture, minimizes the look of fine lines, and reduces visible pore size. It can even help skincare ingredients better absorb and reach deeper layers of the skin.1
Microneedling can be done in a clinical setting by a professional or at home with a derma-roller, pen, or stamp-style tool with needles ranging from 1 to 3 millimeters in length.1 If you're not thrilled about the idea of introducing needles to your skin and are worried about scarring, infection, irritation, or breakouts, you might be able to get similar results with a facial serum containing spicules.2
Our guide covers how spicules offer a topical microneedling effect, what ingredients to look for when choosing a serum, and how to incorporate this type of product into your at-home skincare routine.
What Makes a Serum Ideal for Exfoliation?
If you want to achieve a microneedling effect at home, without using a tool with actual metal needles, look for something that combines spicules with barrier-repairing actives. The formula should be lightweight, fast-absorbing, and free of irritating ingredients.
Many people ask, “What are spicules and why are they used in serums?” Spicules are tiny, needle-like structures derived from sea sponges that help create microchannels in the skin for better ingredient absorption.
Here's what goes into Rael's carefully formulated spicule serums and why:
- Sponge-derived spicules: We use spicules sustainably harvested from hydrolyzed sea sponges. They're refined to preserve the structure, control the length, and ensure the proper concentration for each formula. These microscopic, needle-shaped particles create microchannels in the skin, allowing other ingredients to penetrate deeper and encouraging cell turnover that contributes to healthy skin growth.3,4 If you’re wondering, “Are spicules safe for skin?” rest assured, they are carefully tested for efficacy and tolerability.
- Azelaic acid: The refined spicules are coated with azelaic acid, an all-star ingredient that smoothes the look of redness. It also acts as a mild exfoliant to visibly target problem areas for a clearer-looking complexion.5
- Allantoin: Allantoin is a plant compound that helps reduce the appearance of redness and irritation. It can also help visibly improve the look of post-blemish marks.6
- Cica PDRN: This ingredient combines centella asiatica (cica) and polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN) to support healthy-looking skin, ideal if you want to increase resilience and repair.7,8
- Ectoin: Ectoin is a protective ingredient that boosts hydration, supports a healthy skin barrier, and helps shield the skin from environmental damage (think sun exposure and air pollution),9 helping your skin maintain a natural glow.
If you're doing microneedling at home with an actual device (which we're not officially recommending), your best bet is to follow with a spicule-based serum containing soothing ingredients that reduce the look of redness for more even-looking skin . Many people also ask, “Does at-home microneedling work?” While professional solutions may deliver the most dramatic results, properly formulated spicule serums can mimic some of those effects in a gentler way without any downtime.
Who Should Use a Spicule Serum at Home?
A spicule-based night serum can be ideal for people who:
- Have post-acne dark spots, scars, or uneven texture
- Struggle with dull skin
- Want to treat and prevent mild breakouts
- Want to gently stimulate skin turnover without invasive treatments
- Are looking for affordable ways to improve their complexion
That said, this type of product isn't recommended for anyone with active cystic acne, open wounds, or hypersensitive skin. If you're unsure how your skin might react, do a patch test before applying the serum to your entire face.
If you've recently had a chemical peel, laser treatment, or an adverse reaction to retinoids, it's best to wait at least a week before applying anything containing spicules.
Rael Microcrystal 2000 vs. 5000: What's the Difference?
Rael offers two spicule skincare products, the Microcrystal 2000 and Microcrystal 5000 serums. See how they compare.
Microcrystal 2000
Containing a lower concentration of spicules, this serum is best for first-timers and those with sensitive complexions. You can apply it all over or as a targeted treatment on your T-zone, cheeks, or chin.
Start by applying this product two or three times a week, then gradually increase your frequency of use.
Microcrystal 5000
This serum has a higher concentration of spicules. It's meant for people who've responded well to the 2000 formula and are seeking product absorption rates up to 342%.
Use this product just once a week to start. If your skin tolerates it well, you can bump it up to two or three applications a week.
Tips for Applying Spicule Serums at Home
Keep these tips and best practices in mind when applying spicule serums at home.
#1 Why Nighttime Application Matters
Using a spicule serum at night is best because skin enters repair mode during sleep.10 Redness and micro-shedding may happen overnight, as dead skin cells are sloughed off—a normal part of the process. Plus, you'll have a buffer of at least several hours before any sunlight exposure.
#2 Cleanse First, Moisturize After
Wash your face with a mild cleanser, then pat it dry. Apply the spicule serum to completely dry skin. Once it's absorbed, you can follow with a lightweight moisturizer or fragrance-free barrier cream.
#3 Morning Routine After Using Spicule Serum
The next morning, rinse your skin with lukewarm water or cleanse with a gentle face wash (no scrubbing or exfoliants). Apply a calming serum and moisturizer with ceramides, hyaluronic acid, aloe, or other soothing, hydrating ingredients. Finish with a broad-spectrum sunscreen (SPF 30 or higher), even if you have no plans to spend time outside.
#4 What to Avoid
Ideally, you'll avoid direct sun exposure the next day or two. You might also want to skip makeup if you're experiencing any light flaking.
To prevent irritation, save retinols and chemical exfoliants (like AHAs and BHAs) for other days. And keep in mind, mild tingling is normal for about 30 minutes after applying spicules.
Choosing the Best Serum for Your Skin Goals
If you want a product that mimics the transformative effects of microneedling without actually introducing your skin to needles, spicules might be right up your alley.
Rael's spicule serums are clinically tested to be safe for sensitive skin. Just be mindful of the strength (2000 is for beginners; 5000 is more intensive). Be consistent, don't overdo it, and remember to support your skin barrier with soothing, hydrating, and reparative products.
Explore our clean skincare products for effective formulas that fit into a simple routine.
Sources:
- Jaiswal S, et al. "Microneedling in Dermatology: A Comprehensive Review of Applications, Techniques, and Outcomes." Cureus, 23 Sep. 2024, https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC11499218/. Accessed on August 18, 2025.
- Han DH, et al. "Subjective Skin Improvement and Safety of the Spicules-containing Cosmetics." Journal of Convergence for Information Technology, 28 Aug. 2021, https://koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO202124458091064.page. Accessed on August 18, 2025.
- Zhang C, et al. "Enhanced Skin Delivery of Therapeutic Peptides Using Spicule-Based Topical Delivery Systems." Pharmaceutics, 8 Dec. 2021, https://www.mdpi.com/1999-4923/13/12/2119. Accessed on August 18, 2025.
- Zhang S, et al. "Skin Delivery of Hydrophilic Biomacromolecules Using Marine Sponge Spicules." Molecular Pharmaceutics, 1 Aug. 2017, https://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/acs.molpharmaceut.7b00468. Accessed on August 18, 2025.
- Sauer N, et al. "The multiple uses of azelaic acid in dermatology: mechanism of action, preparations, and potential therapeutic applications." Advances in Dermatology and Allergology, 8 Jan. 2024, https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10809820/. Accessed on August 18, 2025.
- Talakoub L, et al. "Allantoin." Cosmetic Dermatology, 2009, https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/medicine-and-dentistry/allantoin. Accessed on August 18, 2025.
- Squadrito F, et al. "Pharmacological Activity and Clinical Use of PDRN." Frontiers in Pharmacology, 26 Apr. 2017, https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5405115/. Accessed on August 18, 2025.
- Sherban A, et al. "Role of Cica (Centella asiatica) in Skincare Formulations: Examination of a Popular Ingredient." SKINmed, 30 Apr. 2022, https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/35532760/. Accessed on August 18, 2025.
- Xu D, et al. "Ectoin attenuates cortisone‐induced skin issues by suppression GR signaling and the UVB‐induced overexpression of 11β‐HSD1." Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2 Sep. 2024, https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC11626367/. Accessed on August 18, 2025.
- Lyons AB, et al. "Circadian Rhythm and the Skin: A Review of the Literature." Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 1 Sep. 2019, https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC6777699/. Accessed on Aug. 20, 2025.