What Are Spicules in Skincare and How Do They Work?

Spicules are having a moment in the world of cosmetics. But based on the impressive resurfacing and brightening effects they offer, it's likely more than a trend.

You might have seen facial serums, creams, or exfoliating products containing this enticing ingredient. What are spicules in skincare, though? The pokey-sounding name may seem overly harsh at first when thinking about slathering it on your face, especially if you've had a bad reaction to strong exfoliants in the past. However, we promise spicules aren't as scary as they seem.

Keep reading for a science-backed explanation of spicules in skincare, including what they are, what they do, who they're best for, how to use them, and what to expect in terms of results.

What Exactly Are Spicules in Skincare?

Spicules are super-small, needle-shaped structures derived from sea sponges and sometimes coral. Made up of the natural silica or calcium found in these marine organisms, they're a natural, biodegradable substance.¹ Spicules are microscopic, so when blended with other ingredients in a skincare product, you don't actually see the sharp points.²

Definitionally speaking, a spicule is a sharp, ultra-fine, needle-like form. It's usually found naturally occurring in vast numbers, like ice particles or, in this case, ocean animals (yes, sea sponges and coral are technically animals).³

In terms of skincare and beauty, spicules aren't exactly an active ingredient in and of themselves. So, what is a spicule in skincare for, then? It helps other ingredients better penetrate and absorb into the skin, making the whole process more effective.⁴ If you’ve ever wondered, “Does at-home microneedling work?” spicules are often used as a gentler alternative to traditional microneedling tools.

How Do Spicules Work on Your Skin?

The pointed structure of spicules essentially penetrates the epidermis—that's the outermost layer of your skin. This creates microscopic channels, known as "microchannels" or "nano-channels", that allow other skincare ingredients, like those that brighten, hydrate, or calm, to penetrate the outer layer and absorb into deeper layers of skin, possibly elevating their effectiveness.⁵

When skincare products are formulated with spicules, they can mimic some of the effects of traditional microneedling, reducing the look of fine lines and post-blemish acne scars. Instead of a physical tool with metal needles, which can be irritating or risk scarring with DIY attempts, the night serum containing spicules can be a relatively gentle treatment with no downtime.^6,7 In fact, the best serum for microneedling effects at home often includes ingredients or technologies like spicules that help stimulate renewal while supporting deeper absorption.

Are Spicules Safe for Sensitive or Blemish-Prone Skin?

Spicules are known for their gentle exfoliating and skin-renewing properties—but are they safe for sensitive or blemish-prone skin? This is a fair question and an understandable concern, especially if you've browsed subreddits or other forums discussing irritation or breakouts experienced after using spicule products.⁸

Yes, spicules are needle-like in shape, but they're not invasive or piercing in a way that damages the skin or causes any blood to come through. They're not even scratchy like many physical exfoliation products.

But the type of spicules matters, as well as the other ingredients it's infused with. Spicules derived from freshwater sponges, also called hydrolyzed sponges, are ideal for those concerned about irritation or breakouts.⁹

So, while everyone's skin is different, marine sponge spicules can support cell turnover. They help exfoliate dead skin cells and allow new ones to develop. Additionally, they help with ingredient absorption without damaging the skin or making existing issues like acne worse.

Why Rael Uses Sponge Spicules (Not Synthetic or Harsh Alternatives)

Rael uses a sustainably harvested, refined form of hydrolyzed sea sponge spicules to preserve the natural structure. They gently create microchannels in the skin. Our dermatologist-tested products are more eco-friendly than synthetic microbeads and milder than many harsh exfoliators.

The serums are formulated with soothing ingredients like ectoin, cica, azelaic acid, and allantoin to reduce the look of redness, hydrate, and bypass the "purging" effect other products can cause.^10,11,12,13 Not only that, but they're clinically tested to be safe for sensitive skin.

How to Use Spincules in Skincare

Always follow the directions on the product packaging when using skincare containing spicules. The main thing to keep in mind is that spicules skincare products typically aren't meant for daily use.

Depending on the formula, you'll want to apply the product only one to three times a week, and one to two pumps is all you need. You might also want to do a patch test before applying it to your face, neck, and décolletage. Apply a small dab of serum somewhere on your inner arm and wait 24 hours to see how your skin reacts.

With a higher strength, start with once a week, and if you're using a milder formula, begin with one or two applications a week. You can gradually work your way up to more frequent use if your skin is tolerating the serum well, but it's also totally fine to use a spicule product just once or twice a week.

We recommend applying spicule serums at night after cleansing your skin. Use them before any other serums in your rotation to allow for better absorption, and follow with a moisturizer to lock it all in. When you do your morning skincare routine the next day, be sure to moisturize again and apply sunscreen with at least SPF 30.

What to Expect After Using Spicules on Your Skin

Just after patting the spicule serum onto your skin, you might feel a subtle tingly or prickly sensation while it absorbs. This is normal! It tells you the spicules are doing their thing and should subside shortly.

You might notice a softer, smoother, or more hydrated complexion after the first use. And with regular, ongoing use, you may see improvements in the appearance of texture, pore size, and firmness with fewer fine lines.^2,7

Spicules Can Be a Game-Changer for Skin If Formulated Right

Spicules can be incredible for your skin. But again, not all spicule products are created equally. The type of spicule used in the formula matters, as well as what other ingredients the product contains.

If you want something that attacks blemishes, not your skin, and addresses other concerns (the appearance of fine lines and visible pores, uneven texture, loss of elasticity, you name it) without causing irritation, a spicule serum can really hit the spot. Just make sure you're not overdoing it—use only one to two pumps, start with one to three days a week, and listen to your skin.

Want to try sponge spicules, the gentle way to satisfy your skin's fluctuating needs? Check out Rael's clean, thoughtfully formulated facial serums.

 

Sources: 

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3. Merriam-Webster. "Spicule." https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/spicule. Accessed on August 18, 2025.
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9. Liang X, et al. "Skin Delivery of siRNA Using Sponge Spicules in Combination with Cationic Flexible Liposomes." Molecular Therapy Nucleic Acids, 5 Jun. 2020, https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2162253120301116. Accessed on August 18, 2025.
10. Talakoub L, et al. "Allantoin." Cosmetic Dermatology, 2009, https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/medicine-and-dentistry/allantoin. Accessed on August 18, 2025.
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